Sunday, April 22, 2012

Painted from memory

Memory is a funny thing. I tend to have a bad one. I can only remember certain events and those events are usually slightly embellished for the sake of good narrative and often told too many times. I am very envious of people who have good memories. My friend Anders can remember the must mundane details from design school and has perfected the art of storytelling which makes him a very entertaining guy to be around. But other friends with the same gift, call their memories both blessings and curses. I think I understand why they say this, but being a member of the opposite camp, I can't say that I would ever curse a better memory.

Henrike came for a visit this past week. She came in 2 Friday's ago, got just enough sleep to fight away the jetlag and I swept her off to City Market. This may not have been the most comfortable transition into India but it certainly was exciting. We walked around the market, shopped for some souvenirs and made our way back to the flower market so she could see the beauty that lies in the bowels of the district. I also threw a party for her so she could meet my friends and coworkers (she brought cheese- delicious, salty,  nutty cheese to share!).

We caught up on our mutual friends and I realized our 10 year friendship mark is closing in. She has a much better memory than me. She reminded me of details that happened in Tunisia and Germany and Boston that I had long since forgotten. Small events that can add flavor to some of the stories I had been telling. We spoke about India, about her impressions thus far, knowing that she had seen the extremes of a culture and was about to be leaving for Hampi, another lens on the same culture. I told her to write down her thoughts because each place she visited would subsequently change her view. This country is too big and too rich to provide a generic impression. There is no real mainstream here, no large pop culture like the states, with the exception of Bollywood, which many say is also regionally appreciated. In India there is still a lot of collectivist thinking. Regional attitudes and cultures are strong, making it a fascinating place to explore.

Henrike and I caught up in Goa after her tour to Hampi. Goa is a very touristy place, but after visiting I can see why so many people go there. The two of us had never had a beach vacation together. We tend to avoid the posh resorts and the comfortable get-aways, finding ourselves in backpacker hostels when we are just a tad bit older than the other tenants or riding in shared vans with locals in attempts to save a bit of cash. This time I asked for relaxation. Living in India is exhausting and I just wanted to get away for a bit.

What we found was a beautiful beach with warm water for swimming and lots of waves to dive into. There were a lot of foreigners, but since it wasn't high season the party atmosphere wasn't overwhelming. We ate fresh-caught fish in Goan spices- lobster, crab, prawns, and the tastiest red snapper I have ever had. The fish melted in your mouth, it was amazing. Henrike also supported the trip with a wonderful bottle of tempranillo from Spain. We uncorked it at a beachside table and indulged while waiting for our dinner. It was euphoric. I have forgotten how good wine can be and the lack of supply here made it taste even better. It was heaven.

An interesting part of the trip circles around to the concept of memory. One of the biggest reasons I wanted to go to Goa was for the swimming. It has gotten very hot here and for all the water that seems available for leisure, none of it is safe. Palolem was the one place I kept hearing that swimming was not only available, but also really nice. I found as soon as I dunked my head in the water a flood of memories came back to me. The act of submerging myself seemed to have triggered a connection to past events. I may not have a good academic memory but my body seems to have it's own memory. I remembered playing shuffleboard at Myrtle Beach, biking to Walden Pond, and grilling out at Lake Berryessa. I thought about walking along the Mediterranean Sea with some college friends and sitting on the rocks next to the Irish Sea before another friend's wedding.

It was a wrinkle in time, surfacing a wave of nostalgia that made me both miss and admire these moments in my life. The only other thing that has the ability to take me on such powerful adventures is music. Similarly, it can trigger the same waves of emotion and floods of memories that water can. These memories gave me comfort but also made me anxious. I have one month left here before returning to the US. I am so excited to see my family and friends, to go back to my old haunts in San Francisco and sit on the beach in NC with my parents and sister's family. But it will also be a little nerve-wracking as I hone in on what's next. Change is the only constant in life. It is important to embrace it, but damn is it difficult.

I went to Goa searching for a little R 'n R. I found the relaxation and rest I needed as well as the comfort of the past in the wrappings of the new.
























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